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August 2020 Newsletter

Updated: Sep 9, 2020

It has been too many months since we gathered together! You will be notified by email and Facebook as events start being planned again. Keep enjoying your beautiful gardens and we hope to see you again soon.

DATES TO REMEMBER Plant Sale We’ll try again for Saturday, October 3, 2020. We have Palmer Hall reserved for October 1-3

Silly and Fun August Holidays · August 1: Homemade Pie Day · August 3 National Watermelon Day · August 6 Friendship Day · August 8: National Sneak Some Zucchini Onto Your Neighbor's Porch Day · August 10 National S’mores Day · August 15 Relaxation Day · August 18: Bad Poetry Day · August 24: Pluto Demoted Day · August 26 National Dog Day · August 27: Just Because Day · August 27 Just Because Day · August 30 Toasted Marshmallow Day Club Birthdays Clare Thompson 8/10/20 Kathy Sharpe 8/12/20 Lorie Uttecht 8/20/20 Diane Bevacqua 8/26/20 .


Club Beauties Scholarships Awarded Gardening Collectables Please scan your garden shed and save those garden tools you no longer use or maybe a lovely piece of garden art. Perhaps some of those pots that have been multiplying over time. All About "Watering Deeply" Every gardener has heard the term "water deeply," meaning that it is better to water deeply once a week than to water superficially more often. What does it mean to water deeply, and how can you tell if you've accomplished it? What Does Watering Deeply Mean? There is no hard-and-fast definition for watering deeply, but it generally means that the water is able to soak at least eight inches below the soil surface. The point behind this is that most plant's roots are not sitting close to the soil surface. They have worked their way down into the soil, in search of water and nutrients. This helps protect the plant in times of drought because the soil surface will dry out much quicker than it will below ground, where the soil is cooler. Since you cannot control the rain, there will be weeks when your garden will get much more water than it needs and weeks when it will be your responsibility to see that your garden is watered.

Another common gardening recommendation is to make sure your plants get at least one inch of water every week. One inch does not sound like a lot, and it isn't. That's a minimum. It is better for the plants if the soil gets a good soaking down to at least the eight inches mentioned above. That's because one inch of water will evaporate or dissipate quickly, whereas a thorough soaking several inches below the soil surface will linger long enough for your plant's roots to get a good drink.

You could try to get around this by giving your plants a little bit of water daily, rather than a good weekly soaking. If you have a drip irrigation system where you are guaranteed that the garden really will get a daily watering, that's fine. However, it is not a practical plan if you are watering by can or hose. Plants that are used to getting frequent water will not develop the deep root system that is needed for the plant to survive periods of drought, so making your plants dependent on daily watering and then missing a few days will cause long-term problems. Once a plant is water-stressed, it can take weeks to recover, and in the case of annuals and vegetables, every week counts.

How to Test How Much Water Your Garden is Getting How quickly water runs through the soil and how much is absorbed for the roots to access will depend on what type of soil you have, the weather conditions, and how fast the water is being applied.

Water runs through sand much more quickly than it penetrates clay. That's why it is advised you amend both types of soil with organic matter, which is great at holding onto the water just long enough for the plants to get at it. A three-to-four-inch layer of mulch will help conserve whatever moisture is there.

However, there's a simple test to get an approximate idea of how much water is falling on your garden. Water your garden by whatever method you have and then wait a half an hour. At that time, dig down into the soil with a trowel. If it's not wet eight inches or more below the surface, it might be that you haven't watered enough or it could be that you watered too fast and the water ran off elsewhere. It is probably both.

Next time, try a gentler stream of water for a longer period of time. A gentle soak for an hour or two is better than puddling soil around your plants and moving on. It primes the soil to absorb more water and to allow the water to spread out in the soil.

It can take a few tries to get it right, and you don't have to be obsessive about getting exactly eight inches. The point is to make sure the soil is absorbing and holding the water long enough to hydrate the plants. Once you master the concept of watering deeply, your plants will stay healthier in whatever weather comes their way.


August Gardening To-Do List In August, annual and vegetable gardens are winding down. The usual exit of the worst of summer's heat at the end of the month means an opportunity to take care of some tasks in the garden that you have been putting off.

· Pick your spots to work outside. Anticipate heat waves and humidity, and get your work done on the days and times most pleasant for working outdoors.

· No matter where you live, you will probably need to water the garden some in August.

· Be on high alert for insect pests. These include but are not limited to thrips, tomato fruitworm, tomato hornworm, spider mites, chinch bugs, scale, snails, and slugs.

· The heat and humidity of mid-summer bring with them plant diseases. Inspect your plants for any diseased foliage now, remove it, and dispose of it properly (do not put it in the compost pile).

· This is still prime time for heat-resistant flowers such as coleus, hibiscus, Melampodium, Pentas, plumbago, moss rose, and zinnias.

· Keep up with your harvesting. Zucchini produce like crazy and get tough if left on the vine too long; share the excess with neighbors. Failure to harvest can also slow garden plants down.


Plumbago The plumbago plant (Plumbago auriculata), also known as the Cape plumbago or sky flower, is actually a shrub and in its natural surroundings can grow 6 to 10 feet (1-3 m.) tall with a spread of 8 to 10 feet (2-3 m.). It is native to South Africa, and knowing this provides the first clue to how to grow a plumbago, along with where to grow one. Plumbago thrives in the South African heat. Plumbago plants are sprawling shrubs with branches that resemble vines. It is prized for the profusion of blue phlox-like flowers it produces for extended periods of time. It has few pests and diseases are rare. Two additional bonuses are its deer resistance and, once established, these easy growing shrubs also tolerate drought. How to Grow a Plumbago Plant If you live in a USDA plant hardiness zone of 9-11, caring for a plumbago will be much easier, and your selection of where to grow plumbago is endless. Size should be taken into account when deciding where to grow. Plumbago shrubs need plenty of room. It will grow as an evergreen shrub and makes an excellent foundation plant. It is a beautiful when planted over a stone or wood retaining wall, allowing its branches to cascade over in a waterfall of foliage and unusual blue flowers—and it will bloom all year long. Because of its pest and disease resistance, how to care for a plumbago is pretty basic. It blooms best in full sun, but will tolerate some shade if you are willing to sacrifice some of the bloom. As with most plants, it prefers fertile, well-drained soil, but again, it isn’t fussy. Slightly acidic, slightly alkaline, clay, sand or loam — where to grow a plumbago in your zone is really a matter of where to dig the hole! These shrubs do tend to become leggy, so plumbago care does involve occasional pruning and you’ll sacrifice the bloom if you trim too often or too much. Plant https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/plumbago/growing-plumbago-plants.htm Coleus Known for its colorful foliage, Coleus is a wonderful, low-maintenance plant to add to summer flower beds as well as containers. This tender annual comes in many shades of color, leaf texture, and sizes. Coleus are in the Lamiaceae, or mint, family. While traditionally shade-tolerant, some modern varieties will thrive in the sun, too. Be sure to check with your garden nursery on the variety. Leaf colors include: Green, Yellow, Pink, Red, Purple, and Maroon. The plant does bloom occasionally at the end of long stalks; trim the stalks for a more compact, bushy plant. PLANTING · Coleus can easily be started from seed indoors about 10 weeks before the last frost date in your region. · Set plants out after all danger of frost is past. · Choose a spot that is protected from wind. Coleus branches break easily. · Coleus needs well-draining soil. · Water the plant thoroughly after planting. · During the first week after planting, keep the root ball moist but not too wet.

CARE · Water when top inch of soil is dry. · Pinch growing shoots of young plants frequently to encourage branching and bushier growth. · Fertilize in mid-summer with a liquid fertilizer at half the recommended strength. · Cut off flower spikes in late summer to extend the life of the plant and growth of new colorful leaves. · In cool regions, take cuttings from your plants before the first frost in the fall and place them in water to root. · Plant the rooted cuttings in small pots and keep near a sunny window for the winter.

PESTS/DISEASES · Insect pests to watch for are aphids, mealy bug, and whiteflies. · Stem rot and root rot can occur if soil is too wet.

RECOMMENDED VARIETIES There are more than 600 varieties of coleus to choose from! Coleus for semi-shade: · ‘Brilliancy’ has bright red leaves with green scalloped edges. · ‘Fishnet Stockings’ has lime-green leaves with dark purple veins. · ‘Mardi Gras’ is compact and has red, green and yellow leaves. · ‘Japanese Giant’ has big burgundy leaves with pink and violet highlights. Coleus for partial to full sun: · ‘Pineapple’ has bright lime-gold leaves with burgundy stems. · ‘Solar Shadow’ has green leaves with dark red serrated edges and tips. · ‘Alabama Sunset’ has brick-red leaves with yellow edges.

WIT & WISDOM · Coleus was a favorite plant in Victorian gardens. · Coleus is a member of the mint and dead nettle family. · Coleus was first discovered in 1853 in the mountains of Java, which is Indonesia’s most populous island today. Hibiscus Few plants can match the beauty of hibiscus plants. In zone 9, you have the option of choosing a tropical variety grown in a pot and overwintered indoors, or a hardy species which can be grown in ground. The hardy varieties can withstand temperatures of -30 degrees Fahrenheit (-34 C). Hibiscus that grow in zone 9 are unlikely to experience such low temperatures but it is good to know they have the ability to survive cold weather.

No matter what type of hibiscus you choose, they require full sun and well-draining soil. Hibiscus need 5 to 6 hours of bright light. However, exposure to the hottest heat of the day can sunburn the plant, so plan to plant in a location with morning or afternoon sun. Indoor plants can be set in the southern or western part of the home, but away from the window. Zone 9 hibiscus should be kept evenly wet but not boggy. Allow the soil to dry out to the touch before successive watering. Hibiscus will produce copious blooms if fertilized. Use a complete diluted or time release formula. A ratio of 10:4:12 or 12:4:18 is appropriate for hibiscus growing in zone 9 Read more at Gardening Know How: Zone 9 Hibiscus Varieties: Caring For Hibiscus That Grow In Zone 9 https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/gardening-by-zone/zone-9-10-11/zone-9-hibiscus-varieties.htm Moss Rose HEIGHT -Under 6 inches -6 to 12 inches WIDTH · -Up to 18 inches FLOWER COLOR · Purple · Red · Orange · White · Pink · Yellow FOLIAGE COLOR Blue/Green SEASON FEATURES Fall Bloom Summer Bloom PROBLEM SOLVERS Deer Resistant Groundcover Drought Tolerant SPECIAL FEATURES Low Maintenance Good for Containers PROPAGATION Seed Stem Cuttings


Colorful Combinations

Moss rose comes in many colors—there is almost no end to the amount of combinations you can make with this plant. The blossoms of moss rose generally come in bright, vibrant jewel tones, but there are mild pastel options as well. There are also flowers with "broken color," where a solid colored petal is randomly streaked through with a secondary color. There are also other forms of this broken color patterning where the outside of the petal is one color with a splash of a second color in the center—it's truly unique!


Blooms are typically single flowers with five petals and a pom-pom of yellow stamens in the center. You can also find semi-double blossoms that have a few extra rows of petals. Also, fully double flowers exist that are many petals together with no visible stamens in the center.

These plants are adapted to dry conditions, so they have very fleshy, succulent leaves and stems. These leaves store up water to use at a later time, and in very dry conditions, they may even fold up their stems to help with water loss. The leaves on moss rose can be different shapes, too. Some varieties, generally the ones derived from the species P. grandiflora, are needle-like, while others are more paddle-like in shape.


Moss Rose Care Must-Knows

Moss rose is an extremely easy plant to grow, almost to the point of becoming weedy. The biggest thing to consider when planting moss rose is location. Moss rose hates wet areas, and one of the few ways to kill this plant is by overwatering. Moss roses are adapted to dry, desert-like conditions. Because of this, it may take them a little time to get going in a cool, moist spring—but once the summer heat kicks in, these plants will be off to the races! Moss rose also grows well in slightly salty soil.


Another great thing about this plant is that it doesn't require any deadheading. Moss rose will keep blooming all season long with no additional care needed. However, the plants do produce large amounts of seed, so you may see volunteers coming back each year if you plant them once. Luckily, it's easy to weed out any unwanted seedlings.

Something from Amy

Just sharing some picture of the summer fun that we have been having:

Officers 2020-2021

President: Sharon Reed

Recording Secretary: Louise Smith

Corresponding Secretary: Dawn Noonan

Interim Vice President: Marie Dankman

Treasurer: Marie Dankman

Parliamentarian: Liz Hopkins

Directors at Large:

2018-2021)

Bill Theiss (2019-2022)

(2020-2023) To be Named

Standing Committees and Chairs 2020-2021

Community Beautification: Interim Chair: Liz Hopkins

Membership: Barbara Denney, Marie Dankman, Janet Theiss, Libby Haraughty

News Letter: Amy Carroll-Arellano

Education/Scholarships: Kathy Covert

Conservation/Penney Pines: Susanna Ford

Historian:/Photographer: Lavaune Bell

Hospitality: Cynthia Struckmeyer

Communications: Janet Theiss

Programs: __________________

Plant Sale: Bill Theiss

Social Media: Amy Carroll-Arellano

Yearbook: Libby Haraughty

Yuba-Sutter Fair: Liz Hopkins

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